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🔬 RESEARCH CITATIONS
1: Hargreaves M, Spriet LL. Exercise Metabolism: Fuels for the Fire. Cold Spring Harb Perspect Med. 2018;8(8):a029744. Published 2018 Aug 1. doi:10.1101/cshperspect.a029744
2: Hargreaves M, Spriet LL. Skeletal muscle energy metabolism during exercise [published correction appears in Nat Metab. 2020 Sep 10;:]. Nat Metab. 2020;2(9):817-828. doi:10.1038/s42255-020-0251-4
3: Baker JS, McCormick MC, Robergs RA. Interaction among Skeletal Muscle Metabolic Energy Systems during Intense Exercise. J Nutr Metab. 2010;2010:905612. doi:10.1155/2010/905612
4: Ament W, Verkerke GJ. Exercise and fatigue. Sports Med. 2009;39(5):389-422. doi:10.2165/00007256-200939050-00005

⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Intro and what to expect
// SECTION 1: Why? //
01:21 Why boulderers should care
02:36 Why not just train strength instead?
// SECTION 2: Endurance Training Options //
03:16 Overview of Training Options
04:08 BOULDERING: Continuous ("Circuiting")
05:03 Circuits Pros and Cons
05:33 BOULDERING: Intermittent
06:40 Which is the better on-wall method: continuous or intermittent?
07:03 Why choose on-wall vs off-wall?
07:29 HANGBOARD: Overview
08:38 HANGBOARD: Continuous (Not Recommended)
08:53 HANGBOARD: Intermittent ("Repeaters")
09:53 When is a set of repeaters complete?
11:04 CAMPUS BOARD: Continuous and Intermittent
12:18 How do I modify the intensity on a campus board?
12:52 ROPE CLIMBING: Overview
13:45 ROPE CLIMBING: Continuous and Intermittent
14:25 Which is better for endurance: top rope or lead?
15:01 How many laps should I do for top rope sets?
15:49 BONUS! TINDEQ PROGRESSOR: Critical Force Protocol
// SECTION 3: Programming recommendations //
16:45 So... which method should I choose?
17:40 Why no talk of energy systems?
19:35 How long should endurance sets be in general?
20:10 How intense should endurance sets be?
21:00 How many endurance sets per training session?
21:47 How much rest should I take?
23:02 When in my session do I do endurance training?
23:58 How many times a week should I train endurance?
// SECTION 4: Final tips and tricks //
24:42 Pick the right climbs
25:09 Head to the overhang
25:33 Get back on if you make a mistake
25:53 Key to long-term progress...

📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 143
https://www.hoopersbeta.com/library/h...

⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.

🖼️ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS
vecteezy.com

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