A well-made bánh mì is a thing of beauty: a light roll with a crisp crust and tender, slightly chewy crumb that pulls apart like cotton candy. Smear it with mayo and pâté, stuff it with savory meats, tart and funky pickles, fresh herbs and chiles, and anointed with a couple dashes of Maggi Seasoning, and you’ve got yourself one of the best sandwiches in the world.

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