The watch that was too expensive for James Bond! This vintage Gruen watch restoration was probably my largest one to date. Everything needed some work on this watch: the case needed to be reelectroplated, the hands needed reluming, and the movement needed a serious amount of work. I even had to make a strap for it! This is a big one, and I hope you enjoy it.

The LinkMicro microscope used in this video can be found here (not an affiliate link): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09VT1Z6L8 I enjoyed using it, and hopefully it adds something to the videos.

#vintagewatches #WatchRestoration #watchrepair #vintagewatch

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The story of Gruen watches originates in the German village of Ostofen, around the mid-1800s. Dietrich Gruen emigrated to America from there, having trained in Swiss watch factories. In 1874, Gruen obtained a patent for an improved safety pinion, marking the official start of the Gruen Watch Company.

Actual watch production began nearly two years later. In 1876, with W.J. Savage, Gruen founded the Columbus Watch Co. The company moved to South Bend, Indiana in 1893 due to an economic depression.

By 1894, Gruen and his sons restarted as D. Gruen & Sons. They moved to Cincinnati, Ohio, creating unique headquarters. In the early 1900s, the name shifted to just "Gruen."

The essence of Gruen watches was Swiss due to imported movements, though some were made in the US in the 1950s.

Around 1915, Gruen's first men's wristwatches appeared, followed by the introduction of the rectangular Caliber 117 movement in 1925.

In 1935, the patented Curvex movement (Caliber 311) defined Gruen's history, setting a trend that couldn't be copied.

The Techni-Quadron, a duo-dial doctor's watch, emerged using movements like 877 (1928) and 500 (1936).

Gruen's watches were notable with distinct designs, including the iconic Curvex style.

In 1950, the Autowind movement series debuted, accompanied by a short-lived American plant. The company relocated in 1958, marking the end of the vintage Gruen era.

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Oil used
Light oil (escape wheel/third wheel/fourth wheel/balance pivots): Moebius 9010
Heavy oil (centre wheel/barrel arbor/barrel/motion work): Moebius HP 1300 or Moebius D5
Pallet oil: Moebius 941/2 and Moebius 9415 pallet grease (for fast beating watches over 19,800bph)
Mainspring: Moebius 8200 grease
Keyless work and upper crown wheel: Moebius 8301 grease

Cleaning agents
Elma - WF Pro Watch Cleaning
Elma Suprol Pro

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00:00 Introduction and History
00:30 Disassembling the Watch Movement
07:11 Cleaning the Watch Parts Thoroughly
08:53 Refinishing the Case and Electroplating Process
15:52 Reassembling and Oiling the Movement
18:39 Winding the Mainspring: Left-Handed Spring, Right-Handed Winders!
18:00 Reassembling and Oiling the Back of the Mainplate"
20:51 Debut of the LinkMicro Microscope
34:21 Crafting the Watch Strap
44:43 Tick Tock: Does the Watch Run?
48:16 Enhancing the Hands with Lume
49:54 Revealing the Results and Showcasing the Watch on Wrist