Published On Feb 9, 2021
This sounds really dumb, but it isn't. I think.
The article which this experiment is based on is called
"Minimizing Injury and Maximizing Return to Play: Lessons from Engineered Ligaments"
By Keith Baar.
A quick google search and you can read through it yourself!
Timestamps:
0:00 Introduction
1:14 Results prior to the program
2:30 Cool science stuff
4:05 The training program
6:42 The results
(Please note that you don't need a specific board for the program, a simple doorframe sufficed for Felix for a while!)
The structure of the program is:
10 Seconds on, 50 seconds rest for each hang.
1. Four finger crimp on 14mm edge, 3 sets. (70-80% effort of what it would take to lift from the ground)
2. Three finger-drag in deep pocket, 3 sets. (70-80% effort of what it would take to lift from the ground)
3. Middle two finger-pocket, 1 set. (50-60% effort of what it would take to lift from the ground)
4. Front two finger-pocket, 1 set. (50-60% effort of what it would take to lift from the ground)
5. Middle two finger-crimp, 1 set (stretch pinkies during rest). (30-40% effort of what it would take to lift from the ground)
6. Front two finger-crimp, 1 set (stretch pinkies during rest). (30-40% effort of what it would take to lift from the ground)
Hope you enjoyed this crazy experiment as well as my interesting results.
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Music from Musicbed.com
Songs:
sun-up-junior-state
jesus-murphy-instrumental-peter-mol
thunderbird-ryan-taubert