The US Navy has an indoor ocean that can simulate any wave in the world. This video is sponsored by Brilliant. You can get started for free, or the first 200 people to sign up via https://brilliant.org/veritasium get 20% off a yearly subscription.

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Thanks to Kelley Stirling and the Naval Surface Warfare Center, Carderock Division for the visit.
Thanks to Miguel Quintero and Capt. Todd E. Hutchison for talking to us about the important work going on in the Maneuvering and Seakeeping Basin.
Thanks to Dr. Georgy Manucharyan at the University of Washington for his help in understanding ocean waves.

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References:

Webb, P. (2017). Introduction to Oceanography. Chapter 10: Waves. Online OER textbook. – https://ve42.co/Webb2017
Stewart, R. (2008). Introduction to Physical Oceanography. – https://ve42.co/Stewart2008
van den Bremer, T. S. & Breivik, Ø. (2018). Stokes drift. Phil. Trans. R. Soc. A. – https://ve42.co/Bremer2017
Monismith, S. (2020). Stokes drift: Theory and experiments. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 884, F1. – https://ve42.co/Monismith2020
Young, I. R. (1999). Wind Generated Ocean Waves. Elsevier. p. 83. – https://ve42.co/Young1999
Wright, P. Island Physics. 4.2 Formation of Waves – https://ve42.co/IslandPhysics
American Bureau of Shipping. (2016). Guidance Notes on Selecting Design Wave by Long Term Stochastic Method. – https://ve42.co/ABS2016
James, S. & Stull, R. (2019). Wave Characteristics. UBC ATSC 113 - Weather for Sailing, Flying & Snow Sports. – https://ve42.co/James2019
Garrison, T. (2009). Oceanography: An Invitation to Marine Science (7th ed). – https://ve42.co/Garrison2009

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Written by Derek Muller & Emily Zhang
Edited by Fabio Albertelli
Animation by Ivy Tello & Mike Radjabov
Filmed by Derek Muller & Emily Zhang
Additional video/photos supplied by Pond5 & Getty Images
Music from Epidemic Sound
Produced by Derek Muller, Petr Lebedev, and Emily Zhang