I created these LED Tail Lights for my 1979 Ford Pickup. I looked all over the internet and did not find anybody who made them, so I decided to make a set for myself. I could have put the LED bulbs into the 1156 and 1157 sockets, but they still are not that bright in my opinion. This design taillight fits the following models: 1973 thru 1979 style side pickup (F-Series), 1978 and 1979 Ford Bronco (U-Series), and 1975 thru 1991 Ford Vans (E-Series). After downloading free circuit board design software, doing a bunch of research on how LEDs work, what company can make the boards, and where to purchase the components. The hardest part in my opinion was making it a bolt-in into the standard taillight housings. The upper section originally housed the 1157 Bulb (running and brake), but now has (28) 5mm Red LEDs in it. The lower section originally housed the 1156 Bulb (Reverse), but now has (15) 5mm Red LEDs for the running and brake and (4) 10mm White LEDs. In the video I tested it with the original hazard signal relay. I plan and suggest you switch to an electronic turn and hazard relay, because it uses less amps and might be a problem if you ever switch to all LED bulbs in all the other locations on the truck. The first set of boards I designed fit into the Original FoMoCo taillights but did not fit the TYC-Genera made ones I purchased from Rock Auto. So, I redesigned them a little bit (now version 2.0) and now they fit both OEM FoMoCo and TYC-Genera versions. There are two things that the non-gearhead may have trouble with. The FIRST is splitting the Red Lens from the White Housing using a razer knife, so you can install the board. I sure wish I could buy the Lens and plastic housing separate…..anybody have any ideas?¬ I know the 1973 has a separate lens, but it has a metal housing and (4) mounting screws. The SECOND is connecting it up to the existing truck wiring. There are good two ways to do it, which makes a good connection that lasts. Crimping pins on the end of the existing wires (so you can use new connectors) or soldering with shrink tube covering. The connectors made sense to me, so that you can remove and service the boards if a component goes bad. Both upper and lower boards are clamped in place using 8-32 screws thru the existing 1156 and 1157 twist lock holes. I am putting this video out there to see if there is an interest in them for me to sell. I have to figure out how much the components cost and how much of my time it takes to make them. Please be patient with me about pricing as this is a hobby, and I do this just to show you what I did. Post a comment and let me know what you think. Thank You!