How to replace the radiator in a third generation Dodge Ram, this is a 2006 1500 model equipped with a 5.7L V8 Hemi. Mine was leaking at the crimp connection where the plastic tanks are located. After some research, many of the aftermarket models are not known to be of good quality, so I purchased a replacement from the dealer instead for peace of mind. #oemtools #dodgeram #mopar

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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-ratchet and socket set
-pliers
-coolant
-new radiator
-new radiator hoses
-pry tool

Procedure:
Remove the two fasteners holding on to the coolant and washer reservoirs, these require a 10mm socket.

Removal processes may vary as I do have a cold air intake. At the top of the expansion tank is a small rubber hose that pulls off the reservoir.

Drain the system of coolant. There is a drain at the bottom of the radiator on the driver's side, it is 16mm. Have a bucket ready to catch the old coolant and wait for the system to drain. Then dispose of the coolant properly.

Remove the two bolts holding on the fan shroud, there will be one on each side towards the top and they are 12mm.

To determine which hose goes where and their orientation, I used a paint marker to label each side as an easy reference.

Using large interlocking pliers, remove the hose clamps on each side, I did find a couple of these factory clamps were cracked which can result in a coolant system leak.

For the one clamp that was broken, I used locking pliers to hold half the clamp open. Then using a small pry bar, I slowly worked off the hose and clamp.

The fan shroud can be lifted and pulled away from the radiator.

Then drop down the oil cooler.

Remove the two 10mm bolts holding on the radiator, one on each side.

The AC condenser is unbolted from the from of the radiator, a 10mm socket is required here. There is a bolt on one side, the other side has tabs that fit into slots.

Finally the radiator is lifted out of the truck. Depending on where you purchased a replacement, you may need to send the core back. If not, this can be taken in for scrap and can be worth a little more than regular scrap items.

While the coolant system was drained, I did flush the engine block to remove any potential debris inside the cooling passages. This is good practice to ensure your engine cools properly and has a long life.

Here is the new radiator. Make sure those rubber mounting grommets are in place and the drain is closed.

Be extremely careful not to damage the fins. Push those rubber grommets into their holes in the bottom. Then install the AC condenser before it’s bolted into place.

Install all parts in reverse of removal.

Replenishing the system with coolant. The system will require about a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water.

You can squeeze the upper and lower radiator hoses to help pushing air out of the system. Fill the system until the level no longer drops in the funnel.

Once the level stays the same, make sure the vehicle is on level ground, turn your fan on full and the heater to the hottest setting, then start the engine and watch the level. Monitor the level of the coolant, if the level drops, add more. Only keep about a couple inches of coolant in the funnel and wait until the engine comes up to full operating temperature. Watch the gauge constantly so the engine doesn’t overheat.

Once the level no longer drops, turn the engine off and let it sit until it cools down.

When the fluid is hot, it’ll expand, once it cools down it’ll contract and you’ll need to add coolant. I warmed the engine up again and repeated the process just to be safe. Then let it cool down again. The valve in the center of the funnel is closed when there’s still coolant inside, it’s removed from the radiator and this is dumped into the reservoir tank. The reservoir tank should be between the minimum and maximum lines, so added more if necessary.

Go back and tightening those gear clamps maybe required when the engine cools down, then check for any leaks. If none are found, you are officially done.

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