How to rebuild brake calipers on your vehicle. For this I’m using my 2006 Dodge Ram 1500 as an example, these are two piston calipers, however the same process still applies to single piston calipers too. Being that the truck is going through for a safety, these do need to be repaired. When I priced out new calipers, they were about $150 per side and a rebuild kit was about $20 per side. Calipers will need to be rebuilt if they’re leaking, sticking, or having ripped dust boots. #autorepair #brakes #howto

Here are the Amazon links for some of the products used in the video:
USA:
Scotch Brite green scuffing pad (600 grit): https://amzn.to/2MGpgxJ
Scotch Brite white scuffing pad (1200-1500 grit): https://amzn.to/2YM0cI9
Metal polish: https://amzn.to/3tytqIH
Brake cleaner: https://amzn.to/3df8FvQ
Steel wire brush: https://amzn.to/2Mx5F35
Brass wire brush: https://amzn.to/2MJM1ka
Copper washers metric: https://amzn.to/3u8DtUQ
Copper washers imperial: https://amzn.to/3s6W8Pn
Brake hone: https://amzn.to/3ppHxwn
Canada:
Scotch Brite green scuffing pad (600 grit): https://amzn.to/2MEQowT
Scotch Brite white scuffing pad (1200-1500 grit): https://amzn.to/3tvlAPL
Metal polish: https://amzn.to/3aACPGZ
Brake cleaner: https://amzn.to/3doe0AW
Steel wire brush: https://amzn.to/3cOcWpW
Brass wire brush: https://amzn.to/36P0jH6
Copper washers metric: https://amzn.to/2NvJF8S
Copper washers imperial: https://amzn.to/3asEX4F
Brake hone: https://amzn.to/3doeA1A

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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-wire brush
-brake cleaner
-brake fluid
-socket set and ratchet
-wrench set
-standard screwdriver
-new seals
-block of wood
-air compressor
-scuffing pads

Procedure:
Loosen the master cylinder to relieve any pressure. Use large interlocking pliers to compress the pistons if possible. Pinch the rubber flex line so the all the fluid doesn’t drain from this line.

Use the appropriate sized socket to break the bleeder screw free. Being that the caliper is being rebuilt, you can use a little heat from a propane torch.

Disconnect the brake flex line, have a drain pan ready to catch any dripping fluid. Using brake cleaner, wash the caliper to remove any dirt or brake fluid.

Use an air compressor, I set the regulator to 50psi. Make sure the bleeder screw is tight too. Keep your fingers far away from the pistons as they can come out with force and I’d also recommend wearing safety glasses.

Use wood or plastic to give the pistons something to hit against, don’t use the frame of the caliper or steel as it’ll damage the pistons. It helps if you have something wide enough where it can push both pistons out almost fully, that way if one sticks, you won’t have to struggle keeping the other in place. If one piston comes out too soon, then push it back in, then wedge it into place until the other comes out.

Remove the dust seals, these just fit into a slot and they can sometimes be stuck in place due to rust. Clean the pistons using brake cleaner, then inspect to ensure there’s no excessive rusting, pitting, scraps, or any other type of damage which can cause leaking or premature failure of the seals.

Wash the caliper with brake cleaner, removing any brake fluid. Clean up any loose rust and dirt using a wire brush and wash using brake cleaner. Use a standard screwdriver or scriber, some which can clean the groove sufficiently.

The standard screwdriver to remove the fluid seals. Gently remove then, don’t damage it’s slot as this can cause a leak. Use a 600 grit or higher scuffing pad to clean up the seal’s grooves. Use a 1000 grit scuff pad to clean up the pistons, removing any debris. Finish up with a metal polish to leave a clean finish which will ensure we have a good sealing surface and all the surface debris has been removed. Then give them a final clean with brake cleaner.

Only using brake fluid as a lubricate, anything else would cause contamination, apply it in the seal grooves and seals. Install the pistons, more brake fluid is applied to the outside surface where the seals will be in contact with.

Install the newly rebuilt caliper and tighten up those slide pin bolts. Reconnect the brake line and install new crush washers and torque the banjo bolts to the correct factory specifications. Then finally bleed the brakes, start from the furthest wheel first.

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